Tuesday, May 8th, 2018
Day 4: Road Trip – Ballinskelligs Bay
Today was long but very rewarding. Leaving Gougane Barra at 8am, I headed back to Bantry and then onto the WAW once more.
Nothing prepared me for the awe-inspiring landscape of the Beara Peninsula, and I wondered if it was possible to see too much beauty. Passing through Glengarriff, with views of Garinish Island and Whiddy Island in the distance.
Skirting the dramatic Gowlbeg and Sugarloaf mountains to Adrigole. It was a challenge to focus on the road ahead. I often stopped to capture as much as I could in photographs. It was a good thing the roads were empty.
How little time I had to absorb the unparalleled beauty. I felt like a small creature in the vastness. I wanted to bottle its essence, take it with me, and retain it forever. But my photos and my poor memory were all the tools I had. Most of my numerous photos were deleted. They didn’t do justice to this ancient, majestic landscape…
Castletownbere was a quick pit stop for fuel before heading toward Dursey Island. You can get over there on the only cable car in Ireland. I considered going over, but the island appeared quite barren; nothing to lure me over except its history.
Vikings kept their slaves there before heading back to Scandinavia. Monks once inhabited the island. If there were a castle, a priory, or other historical structure, I might have been tempted to go over. But I’d spent enough time walking barren landscapes yesterday, and I still had many miles to go.
Onward through Allihies, a community once known for its Copper Mines. Much of its community migrated to Cornwall and the US. From here, the landscape truly blew my mind, as it wound its way through and passed Knocknagallaun and the Slieve Miskish Mountains– too many mountains to name them all, and too beautiful to describe.
My mind wandered back to Patrick. I asked him yesterday if he’d ever thought of living anywhere else. Without much thought, he said no… now I know why… So many beautiful things to take in, and just when I thought I had seen it all, there was something more amazing around the next bend.
Passing into County Kerry around 1:30 pm, the landscape tamed a little: moorland and woodland roads with pretty Loughs. More giant landscapes up to Kenmare, Mucksna and Killaha Mountains, and beautiful panoramic views of the many little islands en route… the colours…
A very brief stop in Sneem—it was tourist hell, coachloads of Americans. Just one main street, with nothing extraordinary to see. But according to Wikipedia, it’s a GeoPark. “The colourful town of Sneem is steeped in history, and best appreciated by exploring the surrounding hills. It is waymarked and takes in features such as a standing stone, rock art, fullacht fia (ceremonial cooking site), and a cillin (unconsecrated graveyard).” Damn, I wish I had time to explore!
Towards the end of the day, I was getting very weary, but the beauty had just begun, or at least another kind. Miles of rugged inlets with secret beaches, coves, crystal blue waters, little boats, and harbours. High up on the Cahernageeha Mountain road, all I could do was admire the turquoise waters of Derrynane Bay and its magnificent beach from a distance. So tantalisingly close, it overlooked Deenish, Scariff, and a host of other little islands.
I caught glimpses of the Skelligs before the bay hid them from view again. I hadn’t been this excited since my first glimpse of Lindisfarne while hiking St Cuthbert’s Way.
The seafront village of Waterville seemed to favour Charlie Chaplin. I didn’t stop to investigate, though the town was a favourite holiday spot of Charlie Chaplin and his family, who used to stay in The Butler Arms Hotel.
Passing through to Ballinskelligs Bay at 5:30 pm, I dropped anchor for the night in a local car park on the beach. There were great views of McCarthy Castle. A tiny little thing, but don’t be fooled; up close it is quite magical. I spent the rest of my evening exploring it and walking the beach to Ballinskelligs Priory, so peaceful with the sounds of the waves and Oystercatchers calling…
My day ended with dinner on the beach. If ever there was a day for a dash cam, this was it.
Tomorrow I visit Portmagee, possibly the Skelligs (so exciting!), and Pilgrim Path No 3 Cnoc Na dTobar.
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