Landing on Ireland’s Misty Shores
Saturday, May 5th, 2018
Day 1: Kinsale, Ireland
After sailing through the night, I arrived at Rosslare on the Irish shore at 4 am. Then began a long drive, in and out of mizzle and fog all morning. Both the Beast and I had been travelling on fumes for the last hour or so. Oddly, there are no petrol stations at Rosslare Ferry Port, and none were open until I reached Cork – there didn’t appear to be any services either.
Apart from the convoy of ferry traffic, there was just me and empty roads. Once off the main N25, the country roads were very reminiscent of the St Just to St Ives coast road in Cornwall: winding and rustic.
At about 6 am, the tiredness was excruciating, and so was the search for fuel. Finally, I found a garage, topped up, and continued with peace of mind. My original plan was to reach Kinsale, the official start of the Wild Atlantic Way, enjoy breakfast at Old Head of Kinsale overlooking the sea, and then get some much-needed sleep.
Imagine my horror when I realised I had left my bacon at home! Not only that, the Irish fog completely obscured the scenery; just occasional glimpses; my imagination would have to do.
I paused to sleep by a ruined signal tower at Old Head of Kinsale, 7.30 am. The ‘gateway’ to the WAW and the start of my journey. The view would be spectacular, if only I could see it…
I slept a strange and unsettled sleep in the van. My homemade bench was extremely comfortable, although I say so myself. Later than intended (10:30 am), I woke to the sound of voices – other visitors.
I was a bit disoriented, but a short stroll in the fresh air to one of the many ruined signal towers in the area soon cleared my head. The sun came out briefly, revealing the previously hidden landscape: a wild, rugged, atmospheric place jutting out into the Celtic Sea. The cliffs, home to nesting Fulmars and Choughs– what a sight!
Next, a quick visit to the Old Head Signal Tower and visitor centre, lovingly restored. It not only tells its own story, but also the fateful sinking of the Lusitania
The Old Head Signal Tower is just over 200 years old, built in 1804 and restored in 2015. The viewing platform at the top of the tower offers panoramic views of the coastline and its abundant wildlife on a good day. Apparently, protected bird colonies on the western cliffs include puffins, Guillemots, Kittiwakes, Peregrines, and Choughs, as well as marine wildlife. It would be a good place to stay for a few days, but I had a schedule to keep.
Onward down the WAW, with a brief stop to visit Timoleague Franciscan Friary. It sits on the banks of the Argideen River overlooking Courtmacsherry Bay, and the village has medieval origins. It has intriguing features, such as mysterious wall passages and tall arches
Still hungry, I was now on a quest to find breakfast in a pretty place with a view. I saw a sign for the Pilgrim Cafe, so I diverted to find it, but it was closed. What have the Irish got against eating, I wondered? So many beautiful places to stop, but no cafes at the beaches or villages.
On I cruised, singing at the top of my lungs to the radio, taking in the scenery as I went. My newly fitted van furniture creaked and groaned with every bump and bend in the road… and there were many. I think I rattled a few teeth loose. If my furniture is still intact at the end of this trip, I shall consider myself a great carpenter.
Eventually, I found breakfast – at lunchtime – at ‘Gers Wild Atlantic Diner’, an unusual place in the sleepy village of Leap. I was so hungry by then, I almost caused an RTA, turning sharply into the car park.
“Leap (pronounced Lep). Leim Ui Dhonnabhain (Gaelic) derives from an ancient story of a local chieftain, O’Donovan, who, while being pursued by enemies, jumped the ravine and escaped; thus, O’Donovan’s Leap. In fact, there is an old saying, “Beyond the Leap, beyond the law”, indicating that the countryside West of Leap was a haven for criminals and political refugees on the run, as they could not be easily followed past the Leap.
One mini Irish breakfast later, I felt much restored and paused a little while to visit the ‘Historic’ Waterfall there.
Back on the road, I crossed many wonderful old stone bridges over creeks and estuaries, and passed ancient sites as the road wound through the now more rugged and dramatic landscape to Mizen Head.
A challenging drive, due to the road conditions, although I should stop bashing the Irish road system—it’s no mean feat building roads through mountains and bog.
An Altar Wedge Tomb overlooking Toormore Bay on the Mizen Head peninsula in County Cork
There are no words to describe Mizen Head… just go there… oh, and take the scenic route; you won’t be disappointed. Access was only €7.50, well worth the price, for the climb down and back up.
Other paths led down the cliffs to the Sea Arch, the Signal Station, the famous 99 steps, and over the Iconic Arched Bridge, offering views up the West Coast. From higher up the cliff, superb views stretch over the famous Dumlough Bay to the Sheep’s Head and Beara Peninsulas.
I spent a good couple of hours there, exploring the headland walks. A steep path takes you to the old Derrick Platform, to look under the bridge. As I stood there, looking down into the mist-covered gorge, I could almost imagine a pterodactyl flying out; the place had a very otherworldly, Jurassic feel.
My day ended in Bantry, a pretty harbourside town with a sheltered coastline. I’m parked at Ballylicky by the water’s edge, overlooking the many little bays and inlets- just beautiful, wishing I had my paddleboard.
Tomorrow I plan to drive to Kealkill, five minutes away, cycle to Drimoleague, then walk the first part of St Finbarr’s Way back to Kealkill. If by some miracle I meet other walkers, I may be able to car share. I also realised bacon wasn’t the only thing I left behind… I forgot the most important item… my Pilgrim Passport.
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