The Journey Home
My stories never end, and neither, it seems, do the adventures.
Friday 28th June 2024
Birthday Quests
The ferry was late getting into Holyhead, 12:30 am. We were supposed to arrive at midnight, and we couldn’t disembark until 1 am. Frustrating, as I had a long drive ahead to Cadair Idris.
It was my birthday, and the plan was to park there overnight—well, the rest of the night—and climb the mountain in the morning. But after very little sleep on the ‘ferry where no one sleeps’, I was tired and a bit disoriented. I only made it as far as Porthmadog, where, courtesy of the Park4Night app, I found a tiny spot to park for the night. Remember to stay left, or you’ll end up in an ANPR car park – I drove in and out quickly!
Cadair Idris
The sound of work lorries woke me just before dawn, and uncertain if I should be there, I quickly got on the road and set off for Cadair Idris.
The Tŷ Nant car park was deserted when I arrived, confirming my good call to stop in Porthmadog, as there was no overnight parking here, though they did have toilets.
At 893m (2,930 ft), Cader (or Cadair) Idris is one of the highest mountains in southern Eryri (Snowdonia). It’s a popular peak to conquer, and one I had not hiked before.
My route, the Pony Path, starts from the Dolgellau side of Cader. It’s probably the most popular route, heading up the mountainside to the curve of the cliff edge above Llyn y Gader. Leaving the car park at 7 am, I crossed the road to the trailhead. Armed with my hiking poles, my legs were still a little wobbly after Croagh Patrick. A gentle ascent initially, with steps in several places.
There were spectacular views over the Mawddach estuary towards Barmouth. And on the ridge over Llyn y Gader, there were great views inland towards Bala and over the lake.
There is a famous “cracked stone” on the Pony Path route up Cadair Idris. It’s often referred to as Y Garn or sometimes “The Split Stone”.
It’s a large, distinctive boulder with a very prominent crack or split running through it. It was a great place to pause and have the last of my Irish Treacle bread before heading to the summit.
A steep rocky path leads to Penygadair, then a very gusty scramble up to the trig point, taking care with the steep drops on either side.
It was gusting quite badly, and visibility was now poor. My hiking poles were essential for balance but also an obstacle on this tricky terrain.
I reached the summit just before 10 am and was greeted by a man running down—there is always someone to make your achievements look small! He was from Devon, small world.
Legend has it that Cader is named after a giant called Idris. ‘Cadair Idris’ in English means ‘Chair of Idris’, while ‘Cader’ could also refer to an ancient fortress. It’s locally known as Cader Idris rather than Cadair, but either may be used. A well-known tale is that if you spend the night on the mountain, you’ll end up mad or a poet.
Take care if staying overnight on the peak, as the small shelter is exposed and the cliff edges are dangerous in bad weather, especially in low visibility. It looked very bleak and forbidding, but a lifesaver in bad weather
Usually, there is a helpful man atop every summit who obligingly takes my picture, but sadly, not today. A birthday selfie it was then, in between gusts, before descending via Cyfrwy (The Saddle).
Heading back down, two young lads approached the summit, one looking less than pleased, the other quite chatty. They had camped out last night and got a little lost en route with the poor visibility.
The poor visibility at the summit meant they had to navigate carefully. As I dislike out-and-back routes, I chose a different path off the mountain, creating a circular loop before descending out of the thick mist and rejoining the main trail.
The car park was full of school minibuses on my return, carrying a large group of young Muslim girls who had travelled from Birmingham (My hometown). Their tutors, oddly all male, greeted me warmly and offered me food and snacks from their ample provisions, which was incredibly kind.
Intrigued by a lone female hiker, one of the tutors then invited me to give an impromptu talk about my hiking experiences. He felt it would inspire the girls to learn that women can do such things. It was quite the honour to be an unexpected role model – and very heartwarming.
Continuing my journey home, there were unexpected “fun and games” on a steep hill along the A470, the main road connecting Dolgellau and Ludlow. This particular stretch, near the village of Dinas Mawddwy, is notorious for its mountainous terrain and challenging inclines.
Traffic had ground to a complete halt in both directions, presenting quite a scene. An older lady towing a caravan had attempted to overtake a broken-down vehicle. With the weight of the caravan constantly pulling her car backwards down the hill, no one could move up or down the road. It was a tense situation, and there was little anyone could do but watch. I truly admired her calm demeanour and sheer persistence. Eventually, she gained enough traction and slowly but surely made progress, and we all finally went on our way.
After all that excitement, I needed refreshment and stumbled across the very beautiful Stokesay Castle, for a spot of Birthday cakey tea. I can’t believe I’ve never been here before; it’s a superb place.
It’s often described as England’s finest and best-preserved fortified manor house from the late 13th century, more a grand home than a castle, with its impressive timber-framed gatehouse and charming hall.
I would kill for the gardens and could have stayed here happily all day.
The side quests continue – Glastonbury: Oblivious to the Worthy Wonders
Saturday June 29th 2025
Fromebridge Mill Pub once again provided a welcome refuge after a fun-packed day yesterday. Good food and a safe harbour for the night, and a relaxed departure this morning.
My journey home continued, drifting into Glastonbury. I don’t remember it being this quiet the last time I was here in 2012. I had a pleasant few hours wandering the peaceful streets and Glastonbury Abbey, blissfully unaware that the iconic festival was unfolding nearby.
It was getting late, and all adventures must come to an end, even if it’s only so a new adventure can begin, onward to Cornwall, and home … until the next time …
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