Wednesday 26th June 2024
Side Quest One: Newgrange and Knowth (Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre)
A very special day that nearly went very wrong.
Newgrange and Knowth, both designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites, are over 5,000 years old. These Neolithic passage tombs predate Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza.
I booked tickets before I left home for what I thought was the Newgrange tour. What I actually booked was a ticket for Knowth, which left me extremely confused. Although in different places, the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre is the starting point for all visits to both Newgrange and Knowth.
Pre-booking is essential, but, thanks to my notorious blagging skills, they managed to squeeze me onto an afternoon tour. My genuinely gutted and confused face, and the fact that I was solo, helped immensely. This left plenty of time for morning coffee and to view the exhibition, which was well thought out and very interesting.
The afternoon tour starts on a shuttle bus that first takes you to Knowth. The bigger of the two sites, the exterior of the main structure has been reconstructed. You can’t go inside, but you can walk on top for views of the surrounding area and neighbouring megalithic sites.
Sandmartins live in the turf roof and whirl and twitter above; my Merlin app identified them as Bank Swallows.
The site contains the largest assemblage of megalithic art in Europe. The latest theory is that they were undertaken by individuals “smashed off their faces on shrooms.” Read all about it. It was a lot to comprehend
Back on the bus, we drove to the Newgrange site for another hour’s tour. Like the first, it was also reconstructed. Interestingly, two different archaeologists oversaw the two sites and had very different views of what the original tombs would have looked like.
You can view the megalithic art on the interior stones. No pictures allowed, but that didn’t stop some. Once inside, the lights are turned off, and they recreate the Winter Solstice Sunrise by lighting the chamber with the Alignment.
The interior remains unchanged from thousands of years ago, except that some of the small entrance stones were cemented, stopping people from taking them as souvenirs—can you believe that!
Outside, a Yellow Hammer’s song filled the air.
Back at the visitor centre for afternoon coffee, jam, and scone, before heading to the coast. My last night in Ireland was spent at North Beach Caravan and Camping Park, in Rush, Dublin, €15 bargain
Booking in, the host was rather dour and without humor—a stark contrast to my rather more chipper demeanor. The place was like a fortress—a fenced enclosure, an electric gate, and key codes for the toilets and the beach gate. I wondered if he was expecting a siege.
But it was right on the beach, with great views and close to the ferry tomorrow. It also had a sauna that you could book. I missed a swim opportunity again, with the tide way out by the time I got there. It had just started to rain, so an evening walk on the beach, between showers, and a paddle would have to suffice.
Today’s road trip tuuune: https://youtu.be/U2tdBAcxbBA
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