‘The One That Got Away‘
The story so far…
In 2018, I set myself the challenge of completing five Irish pilgrim routes whilst travelling the Wild Atlantic Way. Pilgrims who complete all five routes are awarded the Teastas Oilithreachta (Pilgrim Certificate) by Ballintubber Abbey, recognising the completion of Ireland’s principal pilgrim trails.
Circumstances prevented me from completing my quest, and I returned home empty-handed. Six years later, I’m returning to finish what I started.
This time, travelling to the North of Ireland, I will journey South to finish the Wild Atlantic Way and take on Tóchar Phádraig and the brooding and majestic Croagh Patrick.
This is the story of the one that got away.
Ireland Bound:
Thursday, June 13th 2024: The Journey Begins (Part 1)
This week, my trusty van, affectionately known as ‘The Beast,’ was steadily packed for the journey. I’m still waiting for that one thing I inevitably forgot to pack—there’s always something!
At 5:30 pm sharp, I set off into a murky evening, fueled by my good friend Gilly’s Fruit and Walnut Travel Cake, coffee, and the obligatory Cornish pasty. Aside from the usual drama of navigating the ‘new’ A30, it was smooth sailing. I even discovered a fantastic stopover I wish I’d found sooner: Fromebridge Mill Pub in Whitminster, Gloucester (GL2 7PB), just off M5 J13. It’s a quiet spot right by the river, a vast improvement on a layby near Walsall!
Tomorrow promises a nice, steady cruise to Anglesey, where I’ll catch the ferry to Dublin.
Friday 14th June 2024: Ireland bound – Side Quests & Near Misses (Part 2)
After a peaceful night by the river and a cheerful wake-up call from a tiny wren with a surprisingly big, bubbly voice, I was ready for more.
With Anglesey Ferry Port a good 3.5 hours away, I decided to embark on a few side quests. My first stop was the impressive Uley Long Barrow, complete with giant cave spiders. I confess, I kind of wished I hadn’t brought the head torch for that one!
Next on my list, Nympsfield Longbarrow. Sadly exposed, no doubt by those pesky antiquarians, but still a nice little find.
Its chambers, shaped like a cross, reminded me of a tiny Wayland Smithy. I noted this significant layout, which I’ve since learned is commonplace across many great passage tombs.
Next, it was on to Greyfriars Abbey. Honestly, it really wasn’t worth the detour. Right next to a shopping centre, it had little atmosphere; it felt neglected and completely out of place.
So, I wandered down to the cathedral and old town. I didn’t go inside; it states entrance by donation, a suggested £5. Then there’s a long queue at a counter where they can shame you for not paying. But I had a nice wander about and grabbed a late breakfast. Then, totally miscalculating the time for this side quest, I realised I was leaving it a bit late for the ferry. How did I manage to let that happen?!
Now I was burning rubber. One minute I was making good time, and then I hit traffic. Then I thought I’d make it, and then more delays. It was a very intense drive. I was cursing every slow Joe on the road. Finally, Anglesey! But 30 minutes out, the road was closed. No warning; it just diverted back to Bangor. My heart sank. All that way, to be thwarted at the last minute! Long traffic queues due to a lane closure—a nightmare. I felt nauseous.
But after a few hundred yards, the road miraculously cleared, and I flew like the wind. Probably breaking several speed limits, I screeched into the Irish Ferries terminal 19.25 pm with literally five minutes to spare!
No more side quests for me…
It was smooth sailing from here (3 hrs 25 mins), albeit the sea was a bit turbulent. An announcement even recommended that we stay seated for the duration. Some delicious spaghetti bolognese, with Irish beef, and a nice snooze, and I was ready to head off again.
Now on Ireland’s shores, it was late, but it was a straightforward three-hour drive from Dublin to Londonderry. Be prepared for tolls – they like those! But the roads are big, long, and pretty quiet. A quiet car park on the outskirts of town, with a bunch of other vans, provided my bed for the night. Rain pattered on the roof, and I looked forward to a good night’s sleep and a proper Irish breakfast in the morning.
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