Chapter 2: Ancient Paths to The Land of the North Folk

Mon 5th June 2023

Day 3: Baldock to Chrishall (Approx 19 miles – Lynchets Farm)

A day of discomfort

My first Airbnb experience was positive. Albeit a bit odd, having walked miles, feeling deliriously tired, and having to be social with strangers at their house. Nonetheless, they were very accommodating and very nice Folk.

I slept heavily and woke groggy, but I felt rested. Packing was a tricky affair, trying not to rustle things and wake the household

After nicking an apple, I was out the door at 7.30am, into a cold wind, under cloudy skies. My intention was to grab breakfast en route, but villages were quiet and sleepy, with no facilities

The Icknield Way Trail takes a dogleg away from the A505, then runs parallel to it. Ironically, the A505 follows the course of the ancient Icknield Way. I wonder if drivers are aware of the significance of this route.

It was easy walking through tall barley and hay fields, miles and miles of long straight fields, over a gentle undulating landscape

The skylarks above were deafening, no doubt competing with traffic noise.

By 9am, I was in a lot of discomfort; my left boot was digging into the top of my foot. My right boot was digging into my ankle. The laces were slowly unravelling. My shoulders hurt from the weight of my pack. And the hip straps wouldn’t cinch in any further. Why do they make them so big

By Wallington, I was desperately seeking coffee. Oh wait, have I been here before, or was that Wallingford/Watlington!

George Orwell’s house is on the left as you walk into town. The town was very quiet, and no shops were to be seen, so I kept walking

10.30 I reached Sandon; again, no shops or cafes. The pub was closed on Mondays. So I headed to the Church on a quest for holy coffee and cake. But alas, there was none

A cheeky shortcut took me to Therfield. A nice little win that saved time and my feet. The Icknield Way Trail went back on itself and around.

Since it wasn’t the original path, I saw no reason to follow it. Our ancient ancestors would have taken the most direct route, and so did I.

On the stroke of midday, I arrived at the church. There was no holy coffee or cake there either, but it had beautiful roses and a lot of onions! Jackdaws shouted loudly in the eaves

Between Therfield and Royston is Therfield Heath and Barrow Cemetery

An hour later, I was in Royston and had to settle for Costa Coffee and an indigestible mozzarella-and-tomato panini.

Royston sits at the junction of the Icknield Way and Ermine Street, with a history dating back to the early Middle Ages.

Royston Caves was on my to-do list; unfortunately, it’s only open Sat/Sun, BH and Weds. Odd opening hours, what a nuisance. The cave is man-made with medieval carvings. There is some speculation that they are associated with the Knights Templar

Managed to buy some new boot laces and surgical tape before pushing on to Chrishall. The final part of today’s route, again, runs adjacent to the ancient Icknield Way (A505) through woodland tracks, hedged footpaths, rough tracks, and more barley fields

It was along this last section that I came across Nick. A retired amateur entomologist who, like me, had a passion for beetles.

There he was, swooshing his net into the undergrowth and collecting specimens. He records all his data, and it helps research into their continued decline. He showed me a rare European beetle that has moved up the UK due to warmer weather. We had a very interesting chat; what a treat.

Another hour’s walking was made more arduous as the sun decided to come out, all but briefly. Arriving at Lynchets Farm, which has a small field, my accommodation for the night

A Korean lady accosted me immediately upon my arrival and wanted to know where I was from, and where I was going. A lovely lady, but I just wanted to get my boots off and lie down

The rest of my day was spent in ‘rest and repair mode. But first… ready the camp. I was blowing up my air mat and kinda passed out… I didn’t know where I was for a minute… weird… don’t try this at home

Time for food. I was so hungry, I would have eaten the backside out of a rhin

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