September 8th, 2015

Day one: Bowness on Solway – Carlisle (16.3 miles)

After enduring the 15 hour overnight coach trip to Carlisle, catching all my connections and surviving the dreaded automated ticket machines, I was eager to get to Bowness on Solway, the start of this walk. You can walk this route in either direction, but it is recommended to walk West to East as this direction keeps the prevailing wind at your back

Whilst waiting for the bus to Bowness, I spotted a man with a staff in hand. This all felt mighty familiar, and I guessed that he might have walked the Camino. I approached and introduced myself, and indeed ‘James’ had walked the Camino and many other places besides. James was an Italian from Maine, the New England region of the North-Eastern United States. We had lots to chat about, and buddied up for the day. This is how walking friends are made.

Sadly this lovely gentleman is no longer with us, but he will be remembered …

We headed off from the National Trail ‘Hut’ inscribed “Walls End 84 Miles, Good Luck Go with You” or “Segedvno MP LXXXIIII Fortvna Vobis Adsit”. We had only been walking about a mile, when we got a little detained by the very enthusiastic ‘Roger’.

I had a feeling that he didn’t get to see many people! After many photos and much conversation, we continued the 2-hour stretch along the flat salt marshes to Burgh-by-Sands. There was lots of Wildfowl and sheep, but little else to divert the attention. Caution needs to be taken here in poor weather as this area is highly prone to flooding.

Today’s stage wasnt a particularly long walk, by my standards, but after 24 hrs of travelling with little to no sleep, I was already tired and sore all over by the end of the day. Although we walked through some pretty countryside, the vast majority of walking was on the road, this is notoriously hard on the feet and body.

We stopped for a beer halfway at the Greyhound Inn, which just about finished me off. Alcohol and hiking … I must remember not to do that again. The last part of today’s stage was a necessary diversion, following the floods of 2015, that collapsed the banks of the River Eden.

And after the longest final 4.5 miles of ‘PAIN’, up and down into Carlisle, I bid farewell to James and found that my bed for the night, in the local hostel, was in the attic! My plan was was to explore Carlisle castle, but I couldn’t walk another step, time for some much needed sleep.

September 9th, 2015

Day 2: Carlisle – banks (16 miles)

I slept like a log after the previous day’s exertions, and set off bright and early.

There was not much evidence of the wall today but lots of spectacular scenery, such friendly people everywhere and great weather. The weather was cloudy and fresh for most of the day, perfect for walking. The sun broke through around 1pm for a while. I mostly walked on tracks and footpaths today, but there was still way too much road for me; it really hurts my feet.

The path meandered alongside the River Eden first thing, then through villages and fields. I walked mostly alone, bumping into other walkers on the route… going the wrong way, east to west! I started to see some Roman sites today, earthworks, Vallum and I walked on ‘The Starngate’ stone road, which was visible beneath the grass in some places. I saw my first piece of proper wall just before Banks, my stop for the night.

I camped in a field at the Quarry Side Campsite; a rather grand name for a long, narrow field containing little more than a stone sink and a portaloo. Still, I had some rations left, half a cheese sandwich, a banana and two snack bars. I had a full English breakfast at the farm to look forward to in the morning. An exciting day lay ahead tomorrow, with lots to see.

The owners also ran the B&B across the road and kindly drove a group of us to the local pub, five miles away, for dinner.

It was there that I met the other guests: a father-and-son duo from Australia, Ian and Steve, another father-and-son pair from the Netherlands, and a chap travelling solo from Philadelphia. There was a certain irony in the arrangement. Despite being the only woman in the group, I was also the only one sleeping in a tent, while everyone else enjoyed the comfort of the B&B.

We spent the evening swapping stories over some excellent food. I tucked into a superb chilli and a Guinness, hoping it would keep me warm back in the tent, as it was already turning quite chilly outside.

September 10th, 2015

Day 3: Banks – Steel Rigg (13.9 miles) 46.2 total and more than half way

The day started with a full cooked breakfast, courtesy of Elizabeth the campsite owner, in the company of Marrten and Cornelius, the Dutch hikers from last night, then I was sent on my way with a rather large packed lunch.

Lots of wall and more wall today, with lots to see, and the beginning of the most spectacular part of the walk. I followed the wall and mile towers all day, with barely any road, which was wonderful. Banks East Turret to Piper Strike Turret (Turret 51a) – these turrets were built every mile, hence the name ‘mile turrets’. Poltross Burn Mile castle – one of the best preserved on the wall – includes an oven, a stair to the rampart walk, and the remains of its north gateway.

First stop Birdoswald Roman Fort, which was disappointing and misleading. The buildings on site were old contemporary farm buildings to which the landowner had added a tower, as it was fashionable at the time. None of the buildings were of Roman origin, just the foundations remained which you could walk around for free. If I had known, I wouldn’t have paid £5.40 to get in. Lots of interesting information but nothing I couldn’t have googled. There were no relics/artifacts to see.

There was a lot more wall and towers on route and the remains of Thirlwall castle. But … the best bit for me … was walking the Wall Town Crags and the Winshield Crags. Imagine the Cornish coast x 100 … it’s magnificent. It was quite an accomplishment to walk it with my pack; I can’t imagine building a wall up here, such an exposed and vast landscape. Now I know why my packed lunch was so large.

Miles and miles of considerable ups and downs, I was just about to reach the highest point on Hadrian’s Wall and stop for a bit of cakey tea, when I saw a sign for my stop for the night, Winshields Farm Campsite, and Bunk Barns, such a relief. The owners were interesting people, their thick Northern accent difficult to follow and they were pretty hands off and not hugely welcoming. I got the impression their farm was the priority and campers were something they tolerated as an additional income?

But the facilities were very nice, clean and comfortable. They had a wonderful dry room, which had dried all my wet gear by the morning. I met a nice young lady there who had not long arrived; someone had kindly given her a lift to the campsite, after finding her wandering along the road with a broken pack strap, on her first day. Her pack was so immense it was not surprising, I don’t know how she lifted it let alone carried it, and she even packed a hair dryer!

Once settled, I walked the short distance to The Twice Brewed Inn for a pint and a well deserved hot meal, the hardest days walk so far. Here, I bumped into my Australian friends again, Ian and Steve and also James from Maine, I had a great night catching up.

September 11th, 2015

Day 4: Steel Rigg – Chollerford (15.4 miles)

The weather today was sunny but windy … and on that note, most guidebooks advised walking West to East so the wind is at your back. No one told the wind this. It’s been in my face all week, but at least it’s brought good weather.

My day started with ‘breakfast’ in the small, not sure you could call it a cafe … at the bunk barns.

The young son was on duty; he was unintelligible, partly because of his accent and the monosymbolic grunting. He appeared less than happy to be there even less enthused about communicating. But he was handsome, so easily forgiven.

There was a menu, but basically you had what you were given, beans on toast, and a coffee. I ordered a ham sandwhich to go, which was literally that, some ham slapped together between two pieces of bread, my handsome host didn’t even cut it in half, just shoved in a bag, and across the counter with a grunt …

So today started off with a few hitches … walking back up to my endpoint from yesterday, which is the highest point on Hadrian’s Wall Walk – Winshield Crag Trig Pillar 345 m (1131 ft) I pulled my calf muscle. Note to self, don’t walk up large hills early, on cold mornings without stretching off. I came across a tent at the top; someone didn’t quite make it last night, not the best place to pitch up, particularly as the campsite was 100 yards away.

Spent most of my morning limping by myself, then caught up with James, and then Lee and Steve caught up with us. I completely missed Vindolanda, so gutted. I had travelled all this way and not be able to see this amazing place. There were no way markers from Steel Rigg and apparently it is a bus ride from Twice Brewed …… gargh.

We spent most of the morning was spent finishing off the crags, passed Sycamore Gap. Lots more ups and downs but nothing on yesterday’s scale. The sign posts were scant here and it’s easy to go astray, which we did a few times. We all made it to Houseteads Fort together and somehow managed to avoid paying £6 to look around? This made up for paying the extortionate price to get into Birdoswald. Here there were some lovely artifacts and Roman ruins. There were also some rather delicious samples of mead and other alcoholic beverages.

Unfortunately whilst looking around the ruins, I pulled my calf again; no it was nothing to do with the earlier ‘samples’. Something proper went twang this time. So James ended up following Steve and Lee, and I limped after them. By 3 pm I could almost walk normally again, with a lot of pain killers … almost.

Makes you think, one trip, fall, twisted ankle and you’re in trouble out here. The terrain leveled out somewhat after Housesteads to gentle undulations, mostly moorland and woods. I stopped for lunch and the boys carried on.

I paused a while to look around Brocolitia Mithraic Temple and also passed some really nice stretches of wall and Black Carts Turret, both lovely places to stop for a while. My next stop toward the end of my day was Chester’s Roman Fort and Museum. It is the best preserved fort on Hadrian’s wall with a vast collection of very impressive artifacts. I stopped for a bit of cakey tea but spent a good couple of hours wandering around the extensive site and museum.

I pitched up at Riverside Campsite, Chollerford, which would be more aptly named ‘the roadside’ campsite. It’s actually a field next to Jewitts, a coach tour company … there must be a river somewhere? So I found myself in a field all by myself, but there was a toilet block with piping hot water.

A word of warning: before walking this trail, if you think you can walk the wall and top up with provisions at the next town … think again. The towns and villages are few and far between. Most have just a few houses or a farm, few with shops or pubs. The last time I saw an atm or shop was in Carlisle. There is one shop here which is now closed but opens at 9 am. The Riverside Tea Room, next to my ‘campsite’ opens 10 am, no good for breakfast I would be long gone before then. There is also the George Hotel across the road, I headed over there in my scruffs for a bar meal and some warmth.

September 12th, 2015

Day 5: Chollerford – Heddon-on-the-Wall (16 miles)

Today it rained all day, except for a 2 hr gap between pub stops. The sun came out around 3.45 pm and I was all steamy then. The day started with 3 miles walking uphill, in the rain, by road initially, and then mostly flat walking through fields. There was some respite from the rain through woodlands; the smell of the pine in the rain was an olfactory sensation. The weather was so bad I had to bring out the big guns late morning … the poncho.

7 ½ miles done, the Robin Hood Inn, close to Corbridge, was my pit stop for coffee and a packed lunch. I bumped into Ian and Steven again, who were also enjoying a piping hot coffee before heading back into the rain. Then, the same distance again, the wind flapping my poncho vigorously as I climbed over each huge stile. With each soggy step, I was closer to my destination, Heddon-on-the-wall.

I saw the last parts of the wall early on and a fort, then just glimpses of buried wall underfoot on route, which followed the Vallum part of the way. And although I didn’t get to see Vindolanda I saw Vindobala. Well it was a mound of earth, reburied to conserve it.

I arrived in Heddon-on-the-Wall just in time to catch the bus to my campsite, the High Hermitage Caravan Park. It took a long time to get pitched and sorted; the owner was nowhere to be seen, and I had to phone and wait for him to arrive. Then there was a lot of faffing about getting tokens for the washer and dryer. Finally some superb sausage n mash in the White Swan Ovingham, about a 15 minute walk up the road.

September 13th, 2015

Day 6: Heddon-on-the-Wall – Wallsend (11.9 miles)

I left camp 7.30 am for the bus back to Heddon-on-the-Wall; the only rations I had left, were a naked bar and half a bag of kettle chips. This was meant to be my last day of the walk, but after a cold damp night and mainly road walking on already tired feet, I had a gentle stroll to Newcastle, and decided to stop for the day.

Heddon-on-the-wall saw the last of the wall at Towne Gate, an impressive piece, you could see the workmanship. There was a haphazard pile of boulders in the middle mixed with Roman cement, which was lined nicely with blocks. Still if they had made the whole wall with such fineness … it would have taken 40 yrs. to build not 14.

Henley coffee shop saved my life at 10.30 am, which was just as well as the Boathouse Pub, my planned stop, didn’t open till midday. The path followed the River Tyne early on through parks, woodland and a golf course on tarmac paths.

But I hit suburbia all too soon; there were some diversions alongside busy roads, but the last part took me along the riverside walk to the 3 western bridges. It’s supposed to only be 1.5 miles, but it felt like the longest 1.5 miles of my life … it seemed to go on and on. Some navigating needed to find my accommodation, about a mile to the left of the Tyne. The seedy side of town, and another long mile … all up hill.

I walked passed Newcastle Castle which was most dramatic. If I could’ve found the energy, I would have explored it there and then. But alas, my pack had now reached crushing weight. So I settled into the hostel, the name has changed since I stayed there so I shan’t give it a mention. I think it must have changed hands, it was in very poor condition, the slats in the bunk beds were broken and it was hit and miss whether anyone was harpooned in the night by the resident above falling through.

The kitchen was a hygiene hazard and so were the showers. Apart from a brief walk to a shop to grab some provisions, I stayed put until the next day, I couldn’t be bothered to walk into town again. I found another Camino buddy in my dorm so we had plenty to chat about. My plan for the next day was to walk the short stretch to Wallsend, the official end of the walk, then catch a train into Tynemouth for a touristy afternoon.

September 14th 2015

Day 7: Newcastle – Wallsend (6.7 miles) Finished …boom

Total 96.2 miles 36hrs

Today’s walk was an easy 6.7 miles following the path of the Tyne to Wallsend and Segedunum Roman Fort. Segedunum is the most completely excavated fort in Britain, and lies at the eastern end of Hadrian’s Wall.

The huge viewing tower here looks ungainly and out of place but … I enjoyed a well-earned bacon butty and cuppa, and it had great views of the whole site. I bumped into James again which was lovely, before wandering around the museum and site. You can still see parts of the wall that lead right up to the River Tyne.

The saddest part was across the road, there is a fine stretch of wall, still being excavated. It’s direction heading straight under a sprawling housing estate … my heart sank.

So, at the end of another wonderful journey, I caught the train to Tynemouth; my feet had done me proud once more, and I was a tourist for the day.

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